sexta-feira, 4 de julho de 2014

Charles James: além da moda

A exposição inaugural do recém-renovado Costume Institute examina a carreira do lendário costureiro anglo-americano do século XX Charles James (1906-1978) , e é apresentada em dois locais - galerias de exposições especiais no primeiro andar do Museu e no Centro de Costumes do Instituto Anna Wintour, no piso térreo. 

The inaugural exhibition of the newly renovated Costume Institute examines the career of legendary twentieth-century Anglo-American couturier Charles James (1906–1978), and is presented in two locations—special exhibition galleries on the Museum's first floor and The Costume Institute's Anna Wintour Costume Center on the ground floor. 


Charles James Ball Gowns, 1948
Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photograph by Cecil Beaton, Beaton / Vogue / Condé Nast Archive. Copyright © Condé Nast

Charles James: além da moda
The Metropolitan Museum of Art
de 8 de Maio a 10 de Agosto de 2014



Charles James (American, born Great Britain, 1906–1978)
Evening Dress, 1948
Black silk satin and black silk velvet
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Millicent Huttleston Rogers, 1949 


A exposição explora o processo de design de James, especificamente no uso de abordagens esculturais, científicas e matemáticos para construir vestidos de baile revolucionários e alfaiataria inovadora que continuam a influenciar os designers de hoje. 

It explores James's design process, specifically his use of sculptural, scientific, and mathematical approaches to construct revolutionary ball gowns and innovative tailoring that continue to influence designers today. 




A retrospectiva apresenta cerca de sessenta e cinco dos designs mais notáveis que ​​James produziu ao longo de sua carreira, desde a década de 1920 até sua morte em 1978.

The retrospective features approximately sixty-five of the most notable designs James produced over the course of his career, from the 1920s until his death in 1978.



Charles James (American, born Great Britain, 1906–1978)
Ball Gown, 1949–50
Red silk velvet, red silk satin, white cotton organdy
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Arturo and Paul Peralta-Ramos, 1954 


O foco das galerias de exposições especiais do primeiro andar analisa o glamour resplandecente e arquitetura de tirar o fôlego dos vestidos de baile de James. 

The first-floor special exhibition galleries spotlight and analyze the resplendent glamour and breathtaking architecture of James's ball gowns.

 

Charles James (American, born Great Britain, 1906–1978)
"Butterfly" Ball Gown, ca. 1955
Brown silk chiffon, cream silk satin, brown silk satin, dark brown nylon tulle
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Purchase, Friends of The Costume Institute Fund, 


Estão apresentados quinze dramaticamente iluminados, vestidos  icônicss de James, incluindo o "Leaf Clover", "borboleta", "Árvore", e "Cisne" do final dos anos 1940 e início dos anos 1950. 

On view are fifteen dramatically lit, iconic James gowns including the "Clover Leaf," "Butterfly," "Tree," and "Swan" from the late 1940s and early 1950s. 





Animações, textos analíticos, raios-x, e imagens vintage contam a história da intrincada construção de cada vestido.

Analytical animations, text, x-rays, and vintage images tell the story of each gown's intricate construction and history.


Charles James (American, born Great Britain, 1906–1978)
Evening Dress, 1946
Black silk-rayon velvet, red silk satin, brown silk faille, black silk crepe
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Arturo and Paul Peralta-Ramos, 1954 





O Centro de Costume Anna Wintour e  a  Galeria  Lizzie e Jonathan Tisch fornecem a tecnologia e flexibilidade para dramatizar a artesania de James. 

The Anna Wintour Costume Center's Lizzie and Jonathan Tisch Gallery provides the technology and flexibility to dramatize James's craft. 




Um caminho em torno de uma plataforma  em cruz, onde a evolução e a metamorfose das roupad  de dias e de noite de James  são exploradas em quatro categorias: espirais e  embrulhos, cortinas e dobras, formas platônicas, e cortes anatomicos. 

A pathway winds around a cruciform platform where the evolution and metamorphosis of James's day and evening wear are explored in four categories: Spirals & Wraps, Drapes & Folds, Platonic Form, and Anatomical Cut. 



Charles James (American, born Great Britain, 1906–1978)
"Four Leaf Clover" Evening Dress, 1953
White silk satin, white silk faille, black silk-rayon velvet
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Gift of Elizabeth Fairall, 1953 

Animações de vídeo voltadas para os exemplos mais representativos da sua abordagem são mostradas em monitores e câmeras ao vivo detalhando as costas das roupas e são projetadas nas paredes. 

Video animations focused on the most representative examples of his approach are shown on monitors, and live-feed cameras detailing the backs of garments are projected on the walls. 






A Galeria Carl e Iris Barrel Apfel  exibe as coisas efêmeras da vida e da obra de James, incluindo desenhos, peças padrão, moldes de vestidos, maquetes de jóias, álbuns de recortes, e acessórios.

The Carl and Iris Barrel Apfel Gallery displays ephemera from James's life and work, including drawings, pattern pieces, dress forms, jewelry maquettes, scrapbooks, and accessories.



Charles James with Model, 1948
Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photograph by Cecil Beaton, Beaton / Vogue / Condé Nast Archive. Copyright © Condé Nast



Charles James (American, born Great Britain, 1906–1978)
"Taxi" Dress, ca. 1932
Black wool ribbed knit
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Purchase, Alan W. Kornberg Gift, 2013 (2013.309)







Charles James (American, born Great Britain, 1906–1978), 
Ball Gown, 1949–50
- Red silk velvet, red silk satin, white cotton organdy



Babe Paley in Charles James Ball Gown, 1950
Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photograph by John Rawlings, Rawlings / Vogue / Condé Nast Archive. Copyright © Condé Nast








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